Reptile Salvation

By: Ryan Reynolds

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Harmless or not, snakes are repulsive and a source of fright to most people. If you see one in your backyard, flower pots, by the poolside, and God forbid, your kitchen or the bedroom, what you should do and what you should not do are some of the issues we are going to look at.

If you cannot identify the species or do not know whether it is venomous or not, don’t take any chances. Call a professional who knows how to get rid of snakes.

Repelling snakes

What is now important is to find out how and why it came; with a view to preventing a recurrence. Did it come after a rodent like a mouse or did it come for any other food like what is in your garbage collecting cans? Have you been keeping them open inviting all kinds of pests home?

Many snake repellents can be used effectively to keep snakes away, especially if you live in a snake prone area. Snakes have a smell receptor called Jacobson’s organ which is extra sensory in the perception of smells. The odor and the harsh taste the repellent discharges almost anesthetizes the snake making it lazy and weak causing it to make a hurried retreat before things could become too hot for it.

Clean up the Mess

Snakes will not easily come to a house garden unless for food, shelter or as a hiding place from a potential danger. As some preventive snake repellent measures, clean all the mess in your garden and make it orderly and fit more for human habitation than for snakes. This will involve keeping the grass short and regular tidying up and disposal of all garbage collected without much delay.

Keep all the garbage cans, other cartons and recycling boxes etc. closed so that snakes will not be attracted to them for food, shelter or hiding.

Recurring Snake Arrivals

If you are living in a highly snake prone location with a problem of recurrent invasions from snakes, there are snake collectors who would be more than glad to come and help you free of charge by capturing the snake alive and removing it. You may contact a local branch of a herpetological society for advice and assistance. This is one good way if you’ve been wondering how to get rid of blackheads.

Remove it Yourself

If you identify the snake species and are positive that it is not a venomous type, and as long as you don’t feel squeamish about it, it is rather simple to catch a snake alive and release it elsewhere to a natural habitat far away from residential and commercial areas.

Leave it alone

If you are generally the lucky type, there is a small probability that the snake you have got within your premises is a black racer, in which case it is a blessing in disguise; because it devours all kinds of venomous snakes! If it is a black racer, you just let it be in your backyard without allowing it to come too close for comfort. It’s a natural snake repellent, after all!

By: Elena Semick

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By: Michael Gutemberg

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By: Frank Hardy`

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When it comes to feeding your snake, you need to stick to pre-killed food.

There are a lot of reasons that people prefer to give their snakes live food. One of the most common is they feel that a snake in its natural habitat would eat live food so in captivity they should be given live food as well. I used to agree with them. However, it only took one incident for me to change my mind.

I was feeding my Brazilian rainbow boa like I usually did. I removed the driftwood from her cage but left the plants inside because she preferred to hide in them before she attacked. I put a medium sized rat in the cage as usual. As usual, she attacked quickly. However, she made a fatal error. She managed to get herself bit, and that caused her to puncture her lung. She died a few minutes later.

The main reason you need to stick to pre-killed food is for safety reasons. Yes, 99% of the time your snake will take care of the live food quickly and efficiently. However, it only takes one incident to kill your snake. Feeding your snake live food is simply an unnecessary risk.

There are other benefits to giving your snake pre-killed food. It’s more readily available in pet stores. The pre-killed animals are killed humanely and didn’t suffer. That’s not likely to be the case when putting live prey in with your snake.

If you’re worried about your snake not accepting pre-killed food, you’re likely unnecessarily worrying. Almost every snake will accept pre-killed food. It may take a few tries to get your snake accustomed to pre-killed food if it had been on a live prey diet previously, but almost every snake can be taught to eat pre-killed food.

The process of feeding your snake pre-killed food is really quite simple:


1) Thaw out your rodent in warm water for 30 minutes. Snakes won’t eat it if it’s frozen, so make sure it’s warm.

2) Dry it off.

3) Put the rodent in the cage.

4) If the snake appears uninterested, grab a pair of tongs and move the rodent around to make it appear alive.


Snakes make great pets and can be companions for years. Why risk unnecessary injury or even death by feeding your snake live prey?

By: Gary Ruplinger

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Corn snakes are the most popular pet snake there is, and for a very good reason. These are snakes with a very good temper, and they are very easy to keep in an enclosure. Their adult size will usually be between 4 to 6 feet, and they have a very slender body type. The “original” corn snake has a black and white checkered pattern on their bellies that resembles a corn cob. I say original because corn snakes have been bred to get the most amazing colors and patterns; spotted, striped, no pattern, and all kinds of colors. Even pet shops usually have a wide variety of these “morphs”.

Corn snakes live for a long time, around 15 to 20 years, so keep this in mind when buying one. In this care sheet I will try to explain the most important sides of having a pet corn snake.

Setup

When you get your first corn snake, it is important that you have its setup ready.

First they need a tank to live in, a ten gallon tank is a good size for a young one. Then you increase the size of the tank up to 20 or 30 gallon when it reaches adult size.

At the bottom of the tank you need substrate. You could use newspaper or plain paper, but a better choice is aspen wood shavings. The snake might burrow in it, it’s very easy to clean and it even helps the snake shed by allowing it to rub against it. There are also specially designed reptile carpets you can get, but whatever you choose just remember that cedar is poisonous to snakes, and pine can dehydrate their skin. Most stores have aspen, and it’s cheap and easy so I would say go with that.

One of the most important things, especially for a young corn snake is a hide. A lot of people forget just how important this is. The snake needs to feel safe, and a large empty tank will make the snake very stressed. I can guarantee you that the hide will be the one thing that your snake will use the most. For a hide you can use a box with a hole at the side, a flower pot with a hole at the bottom turned upside down, or you can buy a more fancy one at a pet store. Even an empty toilet roll will work! You should have at least two hides, one on each side of the tank; one on the cool end, and one on the warm end.

This leads me to the heat source. Unless you live where it’s very warm you should have some sort of heat in your tank. Snakes need heat to properly digest their food. A good choice is an UTH(under tank heater). This is a mat specifically designed for reptiles, and you put it underneath on one side of the tank. This will give the snake a gradient in its tank, a difference in temperature on the two sides. Alternatively you could use a heat lamp, but this option will not give the snake any belly heat, so an UTH is the best option. It’s important to remember that the UTH can get very hot, if left without a thermostat it can reach up to 120 fahrenheit! This is of course too hot, and will cause severe burns. So make sure you have plenty of substrate to prevent the snake from laying right on the glass. If you buy a thermostat, a meter that will control the temperature you will save yourself a lot of worries as even with enough substrate on the bottom the snake can still burrow down to the bottom. Snakes are “stupid” in the way that they will not notice that they burn their skin until it’s too late. $40 will give you an OK thermostat, and is well worth its price. If you live in hot areas you’ll probably be fine without a heat source, but for most you should definitely get one.

A meter to measure the temperature and humidity is also important. Humidity is vital for a healthy shed, so when you see that your snake is going to shed increase the humidity to around 65-70%. A simple way to do this is to mist the tank with a spray bottle, or to put a wet towel over the lid. The wet towel will quickly increase the humidity, when it reaches the level you want simply replace it with a dry towel covering 3/4 of the top. This will help keep the humidity in, without getting 100%. Extended periods of high humidity can lead to sickness, so keep the humidity high only when its shedding.

Water must always be available, and the size of the water bowl should enable the snake to soak its body in it. You can buy one from a pet store, but a kitchen bowl will work just as well. Just make sure that the snake does not tip it over. This should be placed on the cool end, opposite of the cool hide.

A secure lid is of course a must-have. Petco has clips for $3 that you put on both sides of the lid, and they work perfectly. A runaway snake is VERY hard to find, especially when its young. And even baby snakes can escape through the smallest gap. Our first corn snake managed to escape once, although this was because I forgot to put the lid back on its cage. Needless to say we turned the whole apartment upside down looking for it, seeing as there were three cats trying to get it before we did. Luckily hours later it showed up underneath the vacuum cleaner. So be careful, get the clips and remember to put them on.

A branch to climb on, or fake plants for decor is also something you might add to your setup. Just remember that anything you bring in from outside, or if you buy it used put it in the oven for a couple of hours on 200 degrees (fahrenheit). This will kill any parasites on it. For plastic plants, rinse them out in a weak bleach solution. If you have these things set up, you should be ready for the snake!
Bringing the Corn Snake home

When acquiring a corn snake you have several possibilities. Pet store, breeder or the classifieds.

A breeder will always be the best choice, as you are dealing with people who love the snakes. Corn snake breeding does not take in a lot of money, so you can be sure that the breeder has a passion for these animals. You’ll be able to know it’s history, sex, date of birth, its feeding records etc. Also you are more protected against parasites. Pet stores usually have a lot of different animals, and their main goal is to make $$. Some stores do take good care of their animals, but unfortunately they are in minority. a lot of people do get their snakes from pet stores, but I would strongly advise you to support the community and buy from a breeder. Buying from the classifieds you never know what you’re going to get, you have no guarantee that the seller is telling you the truth. But the choice is yours.

When you bring home the corn snake there will be about a week where you cannot disturb it. The snake needs to get used to its new home, and in the mean time you must leave it alone. By giving the snake a week to settle down, you ensure that you will end up with a healthy, comfortable snake. After a week has passed, take it out on a regular basis, and let it get used to you. At first it might be a little shy and nippy, but don’t worry. With handling and time it will settle down and be a wonderful pet.

To pick up the snake try to scoop it up from underneath. A big hand coming directly towards its head might feel threatening, so go in from the side as opposed to from above it. Be careful though, a young corn is very skittish and might try to jump right out of your hand. A fall might seriously hurt it, so be cautious and don’t let young children hold the baby snake. If there are young children in the family, wait till the snake has calmed down before they hold it.
Feeding

A week after you brought it home, it should have gotten so comfortable that it will eat. If the corn is stressed or the temperatures are wrong it might not want food, but hopefully this is not the case.

For feedings provide a separate box of some sort, it can be cardboard, tupperware or whatever you have handy. Feeding in the tank is not a good idea, as the snake might digest the substrate which can kill it. Also when feeding in a separate container, the snake won’t associate its tank with feeding, so when you go to pick it up you won’t be mistaken for food. Hatchlings, that is baby corn snakes, eat one pinkie mouse every four or five days. These newborn mice can usually be bought frozen at pet stores, or you can go online for better deals. Put the pinkie in some hot water for around ten minutes, and make sure that it’s completely thawed out. When the snake is in the feeding box, slowly dangle the pinkie in front of it. When the snake strikes, let go and let it eat without interruption. When the the pinkie is swallowed and you can see the lump a good way down its tummy slowly pick up the snake and put it back in its tank.

Now it needs 48 hours to digest the food. Heat plays a crucial role in digestion, as well as leaving it alone for two full days. Digestion takes a lot of energy for snakes, so much that if it doesn’t feel safe or is stressed out it might regurgitate the food.(throw up) This is its basic instincts, if it needs to make a safe escape from a dangerous situation (from the snake’s view) it cannot do this while digesting, hence the regurgitation. After a couple of days the food should be digested, and you can continue handling until next feeding.

There are problems that might come up with feeding that I will address. Hopefully you won’t have to worry about this though. If the snake will not eat, wait five days before trying again. Trying sooner will just stress the snake out even more. A snake is not going to be hurt by going a few weeks without food, so just be patient.

There are different techniques you might try if it really won’t eat. First, make sure that the temperatures are good, and that you’re not handling it too much. If so, you can put the pinkie and the snake in a brown paper bag, roll up the end so it won’t be able to get out and leave it overnight in the tank. You can also try cutting a hole in the pinkie’s head hoping that brain matter will lure the snake to eat. Alternatively, soak the pinkie in chicken broth before trying to feed it. If it’s been over a month you should consider taking your snake to the veterinarian to check for parasites.

If you experience regurgitation something is wrong and you must fix it. Check your husbandry, look in water bowl for mites, and leave the snake alone until next feeding. Also, make sure that you are feeding appropriately sized mice. When the snake gets bigger, increase the size of the mouse and days between feeding. You can also feed rats; adult corns can have either two adult mice or a small rat every two weeks. If feeding rats, you need to make sure that the snake does not get fat. Rats are a lot more fattening then mice, so if you see that your snake starts to develop hips you should switch to mice.

Other Facts to Remember

Snakes shed as they grow, and it’s important that they have good sheds. If the snake has not fully shed its skin, try giving it a bath in luke-warm water, or hold a wet towel around it. You can also put wet paper towels inside its hide to help the snake shed.

If your snake soaks in the water a lot, look for mites. Most often you will be able to spot them in the water. They are small and black or red, with legs. Mites are not because of a dirty tank etc, they probably got it from another reptile. Pet stores have mite treatment that work good, and both the snake, the tank and everything in the tank need to be treated. Also if you have other reptiles, they might have it too. Mites are harmless to humans, but can be fatal to snakes so be sure to treat them as soon as possible.

Wash your hands after touching the snake.

Take lots of pictures, have fun and enjoy your new pet!

By: Vincent Madsen

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By: Janet Martin

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Anaconda snakes, for sure, conjures up an image of a gigantic, black, serpentine creature slithering in mud and constricting a hapless creature to death. You are not to be blamed for this. Instead, blame those numerous movie directors and novelists who, thanks to their imagination or lack of it, portrayed these docile creatures as vileness epitomized.

Urban legends and rumors are awash with horror tales of anaconda snakes gobbling up innocent kids, regurgitating and re-swallowing their victims thereby giving them a slow and painful death and so on and so forth. So much for the creativity of human brain! Ask a biologist and you will get a drastically different image, an image of a docile, fearful and reclusive creature tucked away in the dense forests of South America.

Classified as members of the boa family, anaconda snakes represent one of the lowermost strata in the pyramid of evolution. Found naturally in the dense tropical forests of South America, these serpentine creatures are worlds one of the biggest constrictors. Anaconda snakes come in two distinct and attractive colors, dull yellow and green. Wet and tropical climates, dense forests and undergrowth, and abundance of food are what make the ideal habitat for these visually majestic snakes.

In this era of instant gratification and consumerism, you do not need to go all the way to the dense forests of Trinidad or the swamps of Amazon to achieve the glory of viewing an anaconda alive. Drive down to the nearest snake park, or even easier, search for a view of anaconda in many famous sites and you shall get to see many antics of this particularly gigantic snake head. However, to appreciate Mother Nature true wonders you have to get your boots dirty.

Anaconda snake viewing is one of the most exotic adventure tourism available to us. All you need to do is consult your travel agent, fix up a packaged tour, and get a guided tour of Amazon. With a little luck and some time, you can see not only live anacondas, but also experience anacondas in conjunction with their own, natural ecosystem. No amount of National Geography documentaries viewed in widest of the wide screen televisions can substitute the rush of adrenalin that you will get while watching a true anaconda snake attacking a wild pig.

Planning a trip to the exotic Amazons is easy enough. A little research on the internet will give you sufficient information to plan your trip depending on your appetite for adventure and precious time available with you. A session with your travel agent will further fine-tune the travel plan and will ensure that what you get dovetails with what you expect.

Starting from specialized and trained guides, to boutique hotels offering you unmatched view of the jungle, a whole industry is waiting to help you experience the nature in its purest form at the Amazons. Now get out of that couch and grab a ticket to the Amazons, for watching anaconda snakes in its natural habitat is a sight to remember.

By: Michael Gutemberg

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Western Hognose snakes are a wonderful, small species of snake with lots of character. They have become more and more popular over the years and are now a commonly available species in the pet trade. In the wild they are known to feed on toads, lizard, snakes, eggs and even insects. In captivity however, they will regularly take to rodents. There are 3 subspecies of Western Hognose; the Plains Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus nasicus), the Dusty Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus gloydi) and Mexican Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus kennerlyi). The Plains Hognose snake is the most commonly seen in captivity, the care for all three species is virtually identical. Males grow to around 18”, females up to 30”. This is an excellent species of snake to keep in captivity, its small size, good nature and feeding response makes it a good beginners snake.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snake’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Western Hognose snake, a vivarium 60cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure for many snakes. The reason for this, is that snakes are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it’s safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. Many species will not even hunt for food; rather, they will sit and wait for their prey to come along. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. Many individual snakes feel very comfortable in captivity, although this generally comes with age and lots of handling. Snakes like these will often thrive in a larger than usual enclosure.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?

6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult Western Hognose snake is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Western Hognose snakes require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 84-88ºF while the cool end should be approximately 74-76ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 72-74º.

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a Western Hognose enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Western Hognose snakes are diurnal, meaning they venture out in the day time. This is when their prey is awake. They will often bask in the sun, so lighting should be offered.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for lizards. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Western Hognose Snakes are generally not exposed to a high humidity range in the wild, and in captivity you should not worry about controlling this. A fairly dry environment should be provided, although raising the humidity when the snake is coming up to a slough may aid in shedding its skin properly.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered pinky mice, and as they grow the mice should become larger. An adult Western Hognose snake should be fed on large size mice or small weaner rats. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 4-5 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. Adult Western Hognose snakes need feeding once every 2 weeks on 2 large mice, perhaps one for males. The only exception when they should be fed more is bringing them out of hibernation, getting them into condition for breeding and then, fattening up females for egg production. An egg-laying female should be fed more often than normal, once a week on 2 large mice.

By: Chris M Jones

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In Isaiah 6:1-7 we read about strange, six-winged creatures around the throne of God. They fly with two wings, cover their face with two wings, and cover their feet with the remaining two wings. These creatures are called “seraphim.” When you look up the Hebrew word translated “seraphim,” you find out that it is–uh–seraphim. The word is not translated! Do we have any idea what it means?

Actually, we do know what it means. The Hebrew word seraphim is used five times outside of Isaiah 6 in the Old Testament. All five other times, in Numbers 21:6,8, Deuteronomy 8:15, and Isaiah 14:29 and 30:6, it is translated as serpent or fiery serpent. Why does every Bible version I have seen, which is at least fifteen, leave that word untranslated only in Isaiah 6? Why does the NASB have no note telling us that “seraphim” is literally “snake,” “serpent,” or “fiery serpent”? After all, they take the time to tell us that in the same passage the word “foundations” is literally “door sockets” and that the word “temple” is literally “house.” Is it really less significant that “seraphim” is literally “serpent” or “fiery serpent” than that foundation is literally door socket?

Apparently, Bible translators have not wanted us to know about these snakes in heaven for at least 400 years because even the King James Version of 1611 uses “seraphims” in Isaiah 6 and only in Isaiah 6.

It seems obvious that the reason translators would avoid telling us that the seraphim are really serpents with wings is because they are embarrassed that God has snakes around his throne. However, I don’t find this embarrassing at all. What do you call snakes that have wings and feet? I call them dragons, and the idea of having dragons in heaven flying around and worshipping God seems exciting to me. What a wonderful picture!

Do you ever wonder what other things people are hiding from you? There are seven chapters of the book of Jeremiah that you have probably never read. They belong to the Septuagint (LXX) version of the Old Testament, and they were included in the Hebrew scroll of Jeremiah found among the Dead Sea Scrolls. It has been widely reported among Christians that the text of Isaiah found in the Dead Sea Scrolls backs up our “Masoretic” text, but I’ve never met a Christian that knew that the Jeremiah scroll backed up the LXX. I’ve also never met a Christian who knew that the report about the Isaiah scroll is false. It was retracted in 1948, just one year after the original report was issued. The Isaiah scroll among the Dead Sea Scrolls backs up neither the LXX nor Masoretic text; instead, it represents a third text type.

These things are not hidden. I found out about the scrolls of Isaiah and Jeremiah in the well-known International Standard Bible Encyclopedia, and I found out that seraphim are snakes in Strong’s Concordance. With Christianity in the 21st century known more for its division, its politics, and the fall of its leaders than for its love and service, you’d think that we would want to know what wrong beliefs we have that are creating our wrong actions. Jesus said that we are to seek first God’s kingdom. With a little seeking and searching, perhaps we will discover more important things than snakes in heaven and seven missing chapters in Jeremiah. Perhaps we will find the enlightenment needed to restore the love and righteousness for which Christianity is supposed to be known.

By: Paul Pavao

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