Reptile Salvation

The Australian Silky Terrier is thought to have been bred from crossing the Yorkshire Terrier with the Australian Terrier. This mix of the two breeds was meant to produce a toy dog with the gentle qualities of a small house pet and the inquisitive character and hunting skill of a terrier. Families who have Silkies will attest to the effectiveness of the cross.

It is obvious from the coloring of the Australian Silky that a Yorkshire Terrier had a part in its development, for it carries the gun metal blue coloring with rich tan points and silvery blue topknot quite similar to the Yorky. When the dog is born he is much darker and as he grows the tan markings fade to a lighter fawn shade and the gun metal blue becomes quite silvery. The ” Silky Terrier” is called the Australian Silky Terrier in Great Britain and in Australia, but is called the “Silky Terrier” elsewhere. In any case, the dog is definitely a terrier and meant to have the attributes of a terrier as far as its ratting and rodent killing abilities and in the case of the country of Australia, the little terrier is adept at killing snakes. The Silky is smaller than an Australian Terrier but larger than a Yorkie and the skull and muzzle are not as broad nor heavy as the Australian Terriers’, nor as long as the Yorky. In short this little dog has an almost equal mix of the qualities of the two breeds.

The coat care is simple enough, he requires a daily brushing and an occasional bath. Of course as always nails should be trimmed on a regular basis. The ears are erect and need only an occasional cleaning as they are not prone to ear infections. The hair on the face presents a bearded look and there is always more care on this type of muzzle as far as keeping the whiskers free of bits of food. Trimming can be done if necessary but his coat is easy to comb since it is exactly what it is called : “silky” and there is no undercoat. It lies flat to the body and does not tangle in the manner of a double coat.

The little dog is highly intelligent and is definitely a one family dog. It is wary of strangers and makes a good watch dog. When properly introduced it will accept strangers into the household but still will not be overly friendly. He is a very clean house pet and will get along with other animals in the household if he is raised with them. Of course the terrier temperament will come out if he is confronted and he can certainly do a good job of defending himself when necessary. Obedience competitors have found that the Silky is competitive in the Obedience ring and he is a favorite in the Conformation ring in most of the European countries, more so than in the United States.

By: Michael Russell

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Kansieo.com

This article illustrates the amazing diversity found within the animal kingdom. Below, I have compiled what I feel are some of the most interesting facts about reptiles and their behavior.

Interesting Reptile Facts

There are more than 8,000 species of reptiles on the planet, and the live on every continent except Antarctica (where it is too cold). Most kinds of reptiles do not tolerate the cold very well. But the Blanding’s turtle (Emydoidea blandingii) is sometimes found swimming under the ice in the Great Lakes region of the United States. Reptiles are among the longest-lived species on the planet. For example, large tortoises such as the Aldabra tortoise can live for more than 150 years. Alligators can live nearly 70 years. Ball pythons, a popular type of pet snake, can live up to 40 years (consider that before getting one as a pet). Most of the world’s snakes (nearly two-thirds) are non-venomous. Only about 500 snake species are venomous, and of those only 30 – 40 are considered harmful to humans. In other words, less than 2 percent of all snakes are considered harmful to humans. It is a fact that more Americans die each year from bee stings than from snake bites. With regard to reptile fact #4 above, the opposite is true in Australia. There are actually more venomous snakes in Australia than non-venomous snakes. The inland taipan is one of the most popular of these venomous Australian snakes. Australia is the only continent where venomous snakes outnumber non-venomous snakes. Certain types of snakes can go months without eating. This is especially true of the big constrictors, such as the Anaconda and the reticulated python. Snakes eat large meals (relative to their body size), and they have much slower metabolisms than we humans have. This partly explains how they can go so long between meals. “Cold-blooded” is not the best way to describe reptiles. Their blood is not necessarily cold by itself. But they are ectothermic, which means they get their body heat from external sources. Reptiles cannot regulate their body temperature internally as humans do. Snakes and lizards flick their tongues in the air to capture scent particles. They don’t smell through their noses like you and I. Instead, the use their tongues to collect scent particles and then pass the particles over something called a Jacobson’s organ to decipher the air around them. This is partly how reptiles hunt for food. True to its name, the African egg-eating snake (of the genus Dasypeltis) prefers to dine on the eggs of other animals. It will swallow the egg whole, and then use tiny “spikes” extending internally from its spine to ***** the egg open and swallow the nutritious contents. Lastly, it will regurgitate the unneeded egg shell in a neatly folded piece.

If you enjoyed this article and would like to learn more about this subject, be sure to check out the informational resources listed below.

By: Brandon R. Cornett

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Appeared in ‘Reptile Care’ Volume 3, Issue 3

The northern territory is well known for being ‘the real bush’. It has a population of less than 200’000 people, over 90% of which live in Government areas. These government areas only cover 5% of the Northern Territory, which leaves over 1.2 million square kilometres virtually deserted. This area is nearly five times the size of the UK! As you can now imagine, this is an incredibly large and diverse landscape! There are approximately 300 species of reptile, and 50 species of amphibian in the Northern Territory. Slightly more diverse one might say, than the UK’s species count of only 6 reptiles and 6 amphibians!

I spent the entire year of 2005 travelling around Australia. I went to every State, every major city, drove across the longest straight road in the world, twice, and travelled the complete circumference of this beautiful country. But the Northern Territory was in my books, by far the most fantastic place I have ever been. I spent 3 months in Darwin, and several more weeks travelling around the NT, going as far south as Alice Springs and Ayers Rock (Uluru in Aboriginal terms). I knew the place was for me when, only a few days after I drove through, I saw my first wild Black Headed Python (Aspidites melanocephalus) crossing the road. What a shock! This was the first snake I had seen in Australia and I had already driven thousands of kilometres. I nearly ran it over, but swerved suddenly, missing it by millimetres! I turned around and went back, moving it off the road before the 50 metre oncoming road train ploughed straight through us all! It was a beautiful, 2 metre female in perfect condition. It was different seeing such an animal in the wild, after seeing many of them in friends’ collections, it did not compare to the wonderful feeling of seeing her out in the bush and lending her a helping hand getting across the road. This was definitely for me! I knew there was plenty more where she came from, and I would definitely find them!

During my time in the Northern Territory, I spent 3 months working at ‘Crocodylus Park’. A crocodile research and education centre, home to approximately 8’000 saltwater crocodiles and a number of other crocodilian and animal species. This was certainly an experience of a lifetime. Not only to work with such a large number of large crocodiles, but also to meet a whole group of brilliant ozzies! Myself and my girlfriend Eirlys stayed with an Australian couple; Cade & Holly. Cade knew the area and had been working at the park for a couple of years. He told me of a place he goes to on a regular occasion. He said to me; “We drive out after the sun sets, about 45 minutes out of town and just cruise for snakes.” Well, that just sounded too easy for me, but I definitely wanted to give it a go!

Only a few days later, Cade had organised a few of his mates to join us on a night out ‘herping’. We set off in convoy, Cade and 3 others in his car, closely followed by Maddy’s car with me in the back and another couple of people! 45 Minutes later and we arrive at Fogg Dam. This place wasn’t what I expected, it didn’t look so amazing. We started driving very slowly along this road, which soon turned quite narrow, with a 2 metre drop off either side into dense, wet marshland. This was however, the dry season. In the wet season this road is not even visible, being completely submerged in water. Only a few seconds after driving along, comes our first catch of the night; a Yellow-Bellied Water Python (Liasis mackloti)! This was very closely followed by another, then another, then another. Within half an hour we had picked 14 water pythons off the road, even catching 2 or 3 at a time! Of course, all of these were released straight back into the marshes. I certainly had second thoughts about this place, it was amazing!

After our successful water python round-up, we took the time to sit by the road and see what we could spot. Out came our big torches, shining into the marsh either side of the road. The eyes of at least 20 crocodiles shone back at us. Most were the freshwater crocodiles (Crocodylus johnstoni), but some eyes were larger and further apart, these were the bigger, saltwater or ‘estuarine’ crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus). I had seen this on TV many times, but it was quite different to see this naturally. I must admit, even working with crocodiles all day; knowing that we were surrounded by hundreds of them was certainly a scary thought! The night was topped off by a find I was desperate for, a Northern Death Adder (Acanthophis praelongus)! An absolutely beautiful one too, camouflaged so well into the road we nearly turned it into another piece of ‘road-kill’. This was a successful night!

I later found out, ‘Fogg Dam’ has the largest concentration of predatory animals in the world! The water pythons on their own, represent the largest density of predatory species in such a concentrated area. Their prey is the dusky rat, which are said to be in numbers of 15’000 per square kilometre. From these numbers of prey, it is easy to understand their success.

Darwin is a small capital city, with just over 100’000 people, over half the population of the entire Northern Territory. You only have to drive an hour out of the city centre to reach Litchfield National Park; a 1’500 square kilometre oasis of Northern Territory habitat, including one of the most famous termite mound spectacles in the world, a number of amazing water falls, rock formations and forested areas. A couple of hours due East is the even larger Kakadu National Park, covering nearly 20’000 square kilometres of land, nearly the same size as Ireland! This is one of the most famous National Parks in the world and it certainly should be. Home to thousands of species of flora & fauna.

It was nice to get out to Litchfield National Park on weekends, being only a short drive away. I went several times during my stay in the NT. It has an abundance of wildlife visible during the day, but at night it really comes alive! Litchfield is famous for it’s Magnetic Termite Mounds, so called because they are all north – south facing. The structures are approximately 3metres tall and built so that the narrowest edge is facing the extremely intense sun for the midday heat. With so many termites, come so many predators. Many species of skinks and other small lizards are common here. The Northern Territory is home to approximately 100 species of skink, many rely on small insects such as termites. With so many small lizards, come many reptiles that feed upon these lizards, including the Burtons Legless Lizard (Lialis burtonis). This is one of the larger species of legless lizard, and has the unusual, snake-like characteristic of being able to un-hinge it’s jaw to allow an easy passage for their larger food items. These are very common in Litchfield, and I was fortunate enough to see many. All of which varied in colour.

Orange-naped snakes (Furina ornata) are plentiful in the Northern Territory, although they are not seen nearly as often as other species. I was lucky enough to spot this guy slithering across the road one night. My tour guide for the night was Maddy, one of Cade’s mates. He had been herping for years around the Territory, and was familiar with the different species of reptiles you might find on the different nights, at certain times of the year. He thought I must be a good luck charm, as this was the first Orange Naped Snake he had ever caught here!

I have dealt with hundreds of species of snake in the last few years, but I really wanted to get a taste for the ‘lethal’ stuff. The Northern Territory was certainly the place to do it; and at this point I had already encountered a Death Adder in the wild. That though, wasn’t enough. The Coastal Taipan (Oxyuranus scutellatus) was a rare sight and although I hoped to catch a glimpse of one, the opportunity never came. I was more fortunate however with the Brown Snakes! I saw 2 Western Brown snakes (Pseudonaja nuchalis) within a few kilometres of each other in Litchfield National Park. Unfortunately though, my one and only sight of a wild King Brown (Pseudonaja australis), was a juvenile victim of a car tyre. It had only just happened, we had passed the same spot just half an hour earlier, yet on our way back through, the snake had appeared, dead.

A number of reptile and insect species can be found in and around the Darwin area. While living in Karama, we had a number of visitors to our backyard. Green Tree Snakes (Dendralaphis punctulatus), Two-Lined Dragons (Diporiphora bilineata), Striped Tree Dragons (Amphibolorus temporalis), Australian House Gecko’s (Gehyra australis), Asian House Gecko’s (Hemidactylus frenatus), Garden Skinks (Carlia gracilis and Carlia munda)and Mertens’ Water Monitor’s (Varanus mertensi). Huntsman and Redback spiders are also common in households and gardens.

By: Chris M Jones

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General Information & Housing

Water pythons are a very hardy snake and take readily to captivity. They are usually eager feeders and will take to defrost rodents with little problem. Some wild caught or newly hatched specimens may need a little enticement with bird or reptile scenting methods, but this is not often an issue.

When purchasing a water python, expect the biggest. I have caught a wild specimen approximately 3 metres in length, far bigger than the average. Water pythons are not a ‘lazy’ python. They will often travel a fair distance during a nights hunt, and have a higher metabolism than many other pythons. I recommend a vivarium L200cm x W60cm x H60cm for a large, 3m adult. A smaller 2m adult should have a minimum L120cm x W60cm x H60cm vivarium.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile water pythons, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?

6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a water python is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, ***** them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many kinds of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per 60cm in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Substrate

Substrate is the medium which covers the floor of your enclosure. It really is a choice that you have to make as the owner of your snake. All options have their advantages and disadvantages. Explained below are the choices available to you in the order which I feel is best.

1) Newspaper – This is disposable, it can be replaced easily and cheaply. It is the safest substrate and is virtually impossible for the substrate to be ingested by the snake. One disadvantage is the ink. If the newspaper becomes wet, the ink can be rubbed off onto the belly of the snake. This does not seem to cause the snake any harm, but should be washed off the snake if you see it. If the snake soils, it will mean a complete replacement of the substrate as soon as possible.

2) Aspen – This is my favourite substrate, it is cheap, very easy for the snake to burrow in, lightweight and dirt free. Like any substrate, I suggest if you spot ***** you take it out as soon as possible to minimize the risk of spreading diseases and parasites. When it comes to feeding your snake, aspen can stick to a wet rodent very easily. You must make sure the rodent is completely dry, and as a safety measure place it on a flat surface such as a rock. This will minimize the risk of ingesting aspen when feeding. Aspen however, when ingested can generally be passed through the snake quite comfortably. Aspen can also be quite dusty; it is suggested that you shake it outside to release as much dust as possible before placing into the enclosure. Although this is a very dry substrate, it can be dampened down regularly to raise humidity levels.

3) Bark chips – This is more for tropical species that need to be kept slightly humid. Bark chips hold in the moisture, and are totally naturalistic. It must be kept as clean as possible, if you spot feces, you should take it out as soon as possible. There are different grades of bark chips, I suggest you go as coarse as possible, to minimize the risk of swallowing, resulting in impaction of the gut.

4) Wood chips – When you use woodchips, be careful what species of tree it is from. It must NOT be cedar as when this is heated up, it releases toxic fumes. After a short while wood chips will compact, which means it will become harder for the snake to burrow. Another downside is the risk of ingesting the woodchips while swallowing a food item, this is very easy to do and can cause impaction which will seriously damage the health of your snake.

Heating & Lighting

Water Pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-92ºF while the cool end should be approximately 80-84ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large snakes enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large snakes. If they are used, they should not be accessible to it.

As water pythons are nocturnal, they venture out when their predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to. They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity & Water

Australian Water Pythons are exposed to a high humidity for much of the year, and exposed to a far reduced humidity level during the dry season. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. If you are looking to breed your water python, doing this will greater your chances of success. An 80-90% humidity range from November through to April and 30-50% for the rest of the year will be a suitable humidity gradient.

During the wet season, water pythons really live up to their name and often become almost fully aquatic. A large water bowl where the python can fully submerge is a great additive. Many keepers choose not to provide this as they can be messy and hard to clean. Although this is not a necessity, providing a more natural habitat will always benefit the snake.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered fuzzy mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult water python should be fed on large rats. One or two of these every couple of weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 5-7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for breeding, or just after they have laid eggs. A gravid female should be fed more often for several weeks after she has laid her eggs. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Be sure not to overfeed your snake, obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snake’s weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

For more reptile advice and information, please visit www.petclubuk.com

By: Chris M Jones

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BEZURCER asked:

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