Reptile Salvation

Karen Gall asked:


Generally when choosing cage accessories for your pet lizard, you want things that closely resemble the type of environment your pet lizard comes from in nature. Even though your reptiles are usually bred in captivity, you still want them to feel secure in their surroundings and have the terrarium be pleasing to the eye.

Always buy your cage accessories from a reputable reptile supply company. You don’t want to purchase items that have been brought in from outside without being properly treated. Many items purchased in a pet store are made out of resin. The resin rocks are easy to sterilize especially if you have more than one cage, and you want to move the accessories from cage to another.

Bearded dragons love the smooth grape vine branches that have been specially treated for the purpose of your pet lizard basking under a heat lamp. Make sure the branch is not so tall that your lizard can burn it self under the lamp.

Never use heat rocks for your pet lizards. Heat rocks can cause severe burns and cause internal damage to your reptile. Always use a heat lamp that your lizard can bask under.

Substrates are another consideration when accessorizing your reptile cage. Cage carpets are a favorite since they are easy to clean and if you have more than one, you can replace the carpet while the other is drying. Other substrates are clean white paper, calcium sand, and rabbit pellets. 

Don’t use substrates that a lizard cannot digest like corn cob bedding,wood chips or any type of shavings. These types of bedding are not designed for your pet reptile, snake or lizard. When your pet lizard tries to eat a cricket, some of the shavings or bark could be ingested at the same time, and cause a bowel blockage. This can severely injure your pet lizard.

The only type of sand that is safe for bearded dragons is the calcium sand. It will say that is safe for pet lizards. Again use caution when purchasing sand for your hatchling Beardie. If too much sand is ingested, it can cause terminal internal damage.

The safest and easiest substrate is either the reptile carpet or clean white paper. We chose the green reptile carpet with a heavy resin basking rock than gives our Beardie something to hide under along with a grape vine branch that she loves to hang out on.

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gerijuana asked:

Video was made on July 25,2009,Those little buggers (mites) since i use the Reptile Relief,I Saw No Mites,But to Make Sure No Substrate will go in tank,Watch and monitor the tanks on white paper towels … exotic Reptiles ball pythons Pythons mites reptile relief gerijuana

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Teri Salvador asked:


With more recalls daily it seems people are taking great risks in buying dog food or cat food for their pets if do not know what they are buying. It is a wonder that we can chose any product on the market today, that is not tainted or treated in some way.

As we have seen in the last 20 years the decline in the health of pets worldwide and the rise of pet diseases such as cancer, diabetes, asthma, and damaged immune systems rendering them more susceptible to illness. If this seems scary to you, it is because it is a real minefield, trying to find something healthy to feed your dog. Many pet owners are resorting to making home cooked meals for their dogs, or buying selective truly organic pet foods, which are clearly defined by “what is not in it”. Some are choosing organic only raw dog food diets.

Today, after six months of a massive recall of pet foods with the list growing longer each day and the number of pet deaths climbing, we have to look closely at the label of what we buy for our pets more than ever. All the slick advertising and wonderfully colorful packages with pictures of healthy dogs, jumping in mid air over fences in a meadow, can hide the actual ingredients. In addition, recommendations from Veterinarians do not ensure your dog is getting wholesome, unaltered real food. Many Veterinarians recommended dog and cat foods were on the Recall Lists, although they gained the financial benefits of these higher priced products.

The following is a look at “What Not To Buy” in a pet food, and reverse the decision making process to make it easier to buy dog food.

Meat By-Products:

What do they mean by meat by products? Well, is not really meat, as you know it; however, they call it meat by-products because there are parts of the cow that comes from the slaughterhouse – it is what they throw away.

It is a very gruesome list, which includes: Cow hooves, diseased tissues, such as cancerous tumors, intestines, horns, dead carcasses all derived from Class 4-D sources. These Class 4-D sources are included in pet foods, from dead, dying, diseased or disabled cattle, hence the name four D, which is rotted, diseased meats. They are denatured, which is a chemical process that makes them “unfit for human use” by treating carcasses with: fuel oils, citronella, grain alcohol and kerosene, which were are all approved by the US Department of Agriculture. These are all included in the term “protein” in pet foods, but of course, you will not see “D-4” on the label.

Chicken By-Products:

This again cannot be classified as chicken as you and I would know it. It is similar to the beef by products, only beaks, feathers, diseased chicken’s entrails and carcasses, which is unfit for dog consumption.

Dyes and Coloring:

The same dyes used in the meat supply in the US or Canada for human use, is also added to pet foods. These dyes contain carcinogens that cause cancer.
Why are they added to pet foods? To make to dog food look more appealing to the eye of the purchaser. It does not really work on my dog, she will not eat it. Obviously red dye # 3 used in beef, is not a healthy additive.

Chemical Preservatives:

These are chemicals such as BHT, Butylated Hydroxytoluene- or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, and the rule of thumb is, “If you can not pronounce it, you do not want it in your pet’s food”. They are added to extend shelf life but are associated with liver and kidney diseases.

Fillers:

To create more volume, similar to just adding water, sawdust, chicken beaks, animal parts are added to the pet food mix. You can also find hair, ears, fat and diseased organs.

Artificial Flavors:

Flavor additives are produced through a process of adding these chemicals to animal tissue that is to make dead meat tastier and better for your dog.

Steroids and Antibiotics:

Eating products treated with steroids and antibiotics as are cattle raised on beef farms, destroys the immune system over time. Proper nutrition is by definition a process whereby we ingest food to improve health and support health, not to destroy it.

Wheat and Corn:

These ingredients can cause allergies in pets, and are hard to digest, as dogs do not chew much of their food. Grains have been added to pet foods to provide again low-cost filler, which also binds together other ingredients.
Of course, it is understood that melamine and rat poison offer no nutritional value either.

Melamine:

Melamine is not high on my list of must haves, for my dog’s diet. It makes great plastic counter tops and other plastic products but not good dog food.

Rat poison also is not what you need to feed your dog, even if you were to throw in some omega 3’s or some fiber filler, it does not improve the nutritional quality of pet food.

However, if you see these ingredients listed here on the label of your pet food, you may make better choices with healthier pet foods that do not contain these words on the label. Its better to get an ideal of where things come from before you buy them these days.

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Dr. Robert Sprackland asked:


If you are about to obtain your first pet lizard, congratulations. Lizards are, in my view, the most wonderful, fascinating and beautiful creatures on Earth. Part of their appeal is their incredible diversity; there are more species of lizards than all the mammals or amphibians, and they range from three-inch legless burrowers to the mighty 200-pound Komodo dragon. Some are coloured with somber tans and ochre, and others rival the most ostentatious of butterflies with gaudy green, red, and yellow markings. Some glide on fragile wings, some run across the water, and some can stick to ceilings. With my sincere apology to Samuel Johnson, it is my opinion that “when a man gets tired of lizards, he is tired of life”!

That said, here are ten valuable guidelines to help you and your lizard get off to a good start, and stay on a safe and happy course. I speak with a wee bit of experience, having kept lizards since 1961, and going on to spending over 30 years as a professional herpetologist. These tips are just a starting point, but they cover ten really important points!

1) Start by getting a lizard that is easy to care for! Many lizards are very demanding in captivity, and those should be left to experienced keepers. Among the best starter lizards are the Australian bearded dragon and blue-tongue skinks, which grow to a total length near 13-inches. They do not become stressed when properly handled, are generally tame, and eat a wide variety of foods, from fruits, vegetables and flowers to insects, moist dog food and small mice. Savanna monitors are also good for beginners, but get a young specimen and raise it to adult size; freshly imported adults may be aggressive, but captive bred/raised specimens are excellent animals for beginner keepers.

2) Avoid getting a species that people think of as “pets” but are really very challenging to keep properly. Among those species to avoid: iguanas, Nile monitors, chameleons, and small species that grow to only 3 – 8 inches in length.

3) Read up about your lizard, because there is no excuse for doing a poor job as its keeper. For books, you can consult Bibliomania! at www.herplit.com, one of the largest reptile book dealers in existence. Then subscribe to one of the magazines published for reptile keepers, which include REPTILES (www.reptilechannel.com/rmrc_portal.aspx), REPTILIA (www.reptilia.net/html_english/inter-print2.html), REPTILES AUSTRALIA (www.reptilesaustralia.com.au/), and Britain publishes REPTILE CARE (www.reptilecareuk.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=10&Itemid=11).

4) Remember that lizards and snakes are very closely related groups of animals, but lizards need very different care. Unlike snakes that may need food only once a week or month, lizards usually need to eat every day, and sometimes more than once per day. But do not leave rotting or dirty food in the terrarium, because it could be contaminated with germs and cause your lizard to become sick.

5) Do not grab or hold a lizard by the tail. Even though the tail of a bearded dragon, blue-tongue skink, or savanna monitor will not break off, it is uncomfortable for the lizard. Get used to holding the lizard by putting your hand under its belly and supporting its weight from below.

6) Never use your lizard to frighten anyone! Strange as it may sound, some people are afraid of reptiles, and that kind of fear has led to many laws and regulations being passed that make owning reptiles in some places difficult. It is much better for the lizards – and the rest of us keepers – if you use your lizard to help teach other people how wonderful they really are!

7) Never release an unwanted pet reptile into the wild. Most pets are from other continents and will not live long where you live. It is also possible, especially in a place like Florida, that the released pet will do well and, if many such pets have been released, found a colony of foreign animals. This is not good for the local wildlife and really upsets conservationists and Fish and Wildlife officials.

All diurnal (active during the daytime) lizards need some ultraviolet light in their lives. But UV light does not penetrate glass, so it doesn’t help to put a terrarium near a window. In addition to a heat light (all lizards need a temperature of at least 78 degrees F, many much more), you will need a good full-spectrum UV light. These are now produced to fit in either a screw-in socket or a standard fluorescent tube socket. For examples of excellent products check the Zoo Med website at www.zoomed.com.

9) Always be sure your lizard has access to fresh, clean water! Some lizards only drink dew drops from leaves, but these species are not among the beginner’s species. Even desert lizards – and that includes all of the beginner species I’ve listed – can and will drink from a dish, and even enjoy soaking if the dish is large enough. Soaking also makes skin shedding easier for your lizards.

10) Do not crowd your lizard. If you are getting two lizards to start with, make them both the same species, preferably one of each sex, about the same size, and house them in a terrarium that is large enough. Overcrowded lizards become stressed and may refuse to eat. They are also more likely to catch an illness. If you cannot offer enough space, do not get the lizard. Period.

BONUS TIP 1) A fourth excellent starter lizard is the leopard gecko, a delicate and very popular nocturnal species that has been bred into many colour morphs (it’s something like the lizard keeper’s equivalent of the guppy!). Unlike the other starter species I mentioned, leopard geckos are smaller (to about 6 inches), have soft, delicate skin, and have tails that are easily broken. Yes, they grow back, but only as stiff rods that never look as good as the original. They also require more gentle handling than the larger starter species. They do not need UV light, but they still need a warm terrarium (70 – 78 degrees at night, 78 -95 degrees by day), sandy soil, and places they can hide. Feed them live insects, especially crickets, young roaches, and wax worms.

BONUS TIP 2) Do not use heat rocks to keep diurnal lizards warm! The lizards are, frankly, not “wired” to know that their bellies are actually cooking, and they may stay on the rock until badly injured or dead! Leopard geckos, however, will be fine with a heat rock or two.

Other things that you should know include washing your hands well after handling your lizards, do not tease or annoy the animals, and be sure to keep the terrarium clean.

Reptiles

If you own a dog, especially a hunting dog and live in a part of the country that has poisonous snakes then you should train your dog to avoid all snakes. Unlike people dogs cannot wear snake boots to protect themselves from the fangs of a pit viper that lives nearby. Dogs by their nature a curious about everything including snakes. It only takes a second for a dog to be struck in the muzzle or the eye and you have a serious problem.

Hunting dog training that includes snake avoidance will reduce the chances that your dog will be bit by a poisonous snake. Snake avoidance training is a specialty that requires the trainer to be very comfortable in handling snakes. Several hunting dog training specialists located in the South and West train their prize hunting dogs during the regular obedience training. They would never risk their dog and all the time and effort they have invested by ignoring this serious problem.

We have bird dogs and during their early hunting dog training we introduce them to snakes. In many case catching a local non poisonous snake is the first step in snake avoidance. Placing a freshly caught snake in front of puppy will cause the snake to strike the dog repeatedly. It is important not to say anything to the dog during this avoidance training. Frequently this will cause the pup to avoid snakes for the rest of their lives. However this procedure frequently needs to be followed up with additional training methods.

A more intensive method of teaching snake avoidance is through the use of an electronic training collar in addition to a fresh caught non poisonous snake. You want to select fresh caught snakes to assure that they snake will strike the dog repeatedly. Snakes that are handled frequently seldom will provide the proper striking response that you need. Again the snake is placed so you dog will encounter it however when the snake strikes you will use the electronic collar to provide a shock to the dog. Applying the correction at the same time as the snake strikes the dog is important. Again do not say anything during this process as you want the dog to associate the pain of the correction with the snake and not you and the training collar.

It should be noted that non poisonous snakes do not smell the same as pit vipers. Should you have the opportunity to kill or capture a rattlesnake, copperhead or cottonmouth without endangering yourself you should do so. In snake country you will find dead pit vipers on local roads which will provide the material you need for advanced snake avoidance training. It is recommended that you remove the head of the poisonous snake before you bag the body in a zip lock bag in your freezer. The dead snake parts are thawed out and are placed in a bag with the non poisonous snake for 30 minutes to provide the odor of a pit viper to it. Then the hunting dog training process outlined above is employed to achieve the desired effects. The dog’s sense of smell will help it avoid pit vipers in the wild.

Some trainers use live rattlesnake to teach snake avoidance. This is not recommended unless you are very comfortable working with poisonous snakes. This process requires the removal of the rattlesnake’s fangs with a pair of needle nose pliers. Again the hunting dog training process outlined above is used. The major benefit to this method is to provide an association of both smell and the sound of the snake rattling with the snake. Again this should not be attempted unless you are experienced in handling snakes.

It must be understood that hunting dog training that includes snake avoidance is no guarantee that your dog will not be struck by a poisonous snake. In many cases as the dog works the cover it will surprise a snake and be struck. However frequently these initial strikes do not carry a large dose of venom and are used by the snake to warn the intruder off. An untrained dog will frequently turn on the snake and be struck again with a full load of venom which may kill or blind a dog. In most cases a trained dog will immediately leave the snake alone and continue hunting.

In every case whenever your dog encounters a snake it should be examined closely. Hunting dogs should be put up and observed for any swelling or signs of a bite. Many Vets will provide you with the first aid medicines that you need to treat your dog in the field. If you have any doubts about a snake bite you should contact your Vet immediately. If you love your dog then you will invest in the time and effort to properly train it in snake avoidance. Hunting Dog training that includes snake avoidance only make sense and will save you heartache, time and money.

By: Jim Kesel

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Arnie Jacobsen asked:


Proper nutrition for any dog is important, but making sure that you have the right dog food for puppies is even more critical. After all, you want the healthiest dog possible for many years to come, right?

There are few things more exciting in a families life than bringing home that new puppy. But, how much do you really know about feeding him or her properly? These little guys, in some cases not so little, are looking to us to provide a healthy and happy environment that includes wholesome foods.

Unfortunately, for new owners as well as prior, experienced owners, there is a problem in the equation. The problem is that the information that we get as consumers isn’t complete. We don’t know all of the things that are in the food that is offered on the store shelves.

And, this ignorance is killing our best friends. Sometimes in very short order. At the very least the poor quality of the dog food that we have available to is shortening the lives of our canine companions. How much shorter? By some conservative estimates 8.3 years shorter. Others say longer still.

The problem comes in the form of very lax labeling laws that allow manufacturers to have almost anything in their food. Essentially, the law says that the label need only include ingredients that have been added in the plant, not anything that about substances from prior. Considering the sources of dog food, this is frightening. Dog food plants commonly use other euthanized dogs as part of the food. That means that the chemicals used to kill them is in the food too. Makes your head swim just trying to get your thoughts around that one.

But, you don’t have to sit still for having your new puppies life cut short by improper foods. You can do something about it if you desire. By using simple tips that explain what to avoid and what is healthiest for your dog, you can avoid the tragedy that others have faced in having to euthanize this valued member of the family.

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Kent Pinkerton asked:


Food for your pet is the most important thing to maintain a healthy life. Not all animals have the same digestive system, and feeding your pet the wrong food can be disastrous. The ingredients and the balance of the minerals, vitamins and carbohydrates for your pet is one of the most important things to maintain its health and well-being. For such matters one might depend on specially processed food for pets, rather than giving the pet the food that was leftover from your dinner.

However, nowadays there is a great debate on the topic of organic food for pets, including foods that contain chickens, hormone-free lamb, and insecticide-free crops. Nonetheless, there is a great confusion regarding these kinds of food for pets. Many people are under the assumption that anything which is organic in nature is superior. These organic foods might taste better than other pet foods. The US government is in a great dilemma regarding the issue of organic food. The usual ingredients that should be in food for your pets should be rich in folic acid, all the vitamin supplements, ascorbic acid and other such ingredients.

In order to store your pets’ food, you need proper storage material to sustain freshness. Pet food storage boxes are ideal for the purpose. These are available from the pet suppliers who cater your needs. Discount pet foods provide you with excellent opportunities to buy quality food for your pet at affordable prices. Discounts on food prices give you the opportunity to buy more quality food products for your pet, in order to maintain its health.

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Candis Reade asked:


Life is hard with a furry family of four legged friends to care for and feed. So how do you keep filling those dependent little mouths, but stay within the budget for a growing hungry four legged family? Pet food coupons are a great way to stretch those pennies. Signing up to a coupon site on line can open up a world of offers that will keep your pets fully fed and happily contented with their caring owners.

Registration is easy. Many of the sites will advertise lots of other coupons for household products, food and goods which will help you to save on your other family purchases. Shopping becomes easier and a whole lot cheaper when you pull up pet food coupons on your search engine.

Do you have fussy pets? The little Yorkshire terrier no bigger than your hand who rules your house and who turns regularly his nose up at the dog food he ate happily last week. Or your wonderful old red setter who has for years been happy with local supermarket own brand dried dog food, but who has now decided that he wont eat it. Never fear, pet food coupons will enable you to vary the diet of your precious pooches and offer them a whole new world of variety. Each week you check what special offers you can get with the coupons, which will save you money and tempt their fussy palates.

Have you often stood in the pet food section of the supermarket and been confused by all the different choices? Vitamin and minerals, special additives, fish oil, bone strengtheners, teeth sharpeners, glossy coat enhancers and bad breath preventers… Who’s to know what’s best for your beloved pets? What an awful thought that you may be withholding something vital for their diet and well-being. It’s not even possible to tell what’s best from reading the pet food packaging. Have you ever tried deciphering the forest of information in minuscule writing on the can or bag?

Don’t fret, when you visit the coupon site you can link to the manufacturer’s site for the pet food offer and check out all this information in readable print in the comfort of your own home. Getting the coupons is easier than ever – just click and print! There’s no collection to be done, no paying for postage or waiting for them to arrive. You can download the coupons immediately from the site. Give yourselves a break, give your pets a life of variety, and protect your pocket at the same time. Taking the time to search for pet food coupons is a great idea.

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Terrence A Smith asked:


Whether you’re a mass breeder or just a hobbyist with one leopard gecko, the environment is kept pretty much the same. In the case of mass breeding more food and hiding areas are introduced into the reptiles environment to avoid tail nipping.

Heating is another very important step in the health of leopard geckos because they must thermoregulate