Reptile Salvation

Royal pythons have become an extremely popular pet snake, particularly in the last decade. With the proper care, the reward of keeping these beautiful snakes is enormous, but I would like to stress that many individual specimens can be very fussy feeders. For that reason alone I believe this species is not an ideal beginners snake.

Royal Pythons are one of the most common snake species seen in Rescue Centres around the UK. The reason for this, is that most of the royal pythons bought each year are either wild caught or captive farmed individuals. Captive farming is when gravid or ‘pregnant’ females are captured and then kept in captivity until they lay their eggs. The females are then usually released and the eggs are incubated. The babies are then exported. Very rarely will they be fed until they reach their destination. Importers and wholesalers of reptiles have become better over the years, and will feed the babies several times before they are sold. Many however, are sold without ever having a meal. Being virtually from the wild, they have very strong basic instinct, and taking dead mice as prey is not something they will be used to. I hope the following care sheet will help guide you through the right steps in caring for your royal python.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Royal python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure, especially for royal pythons. The reason for this, is that they are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it’s safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. If however, your royal python is behaving normally and feeds regularly; trying a larger enclosure can only be a good thing. Providing the snake does all this, than bigger is better.

Hatchling royal pythons should be placed into a smaller enclosure. It should be no longer than the length of the snake, and must have at least two hiding areas. When the snake is first purchased, it is a good idea to cover over the cage with something dark. This will keep the snake as stress free as possible. This can then be removed once the snake has eaten its first meal.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?

5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?

6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult royal python is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Royal pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 78-80ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 78-80º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a royal python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Royal Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Royal Pythons are native to North Africa. The humidity is important for this species, but an overly high, constant humidity will cause problems. A 30-50% humidity should be offered, although perhaps raising it slightly when coming up to a slough will aid in shedding it’s skin properly. This can be achieved by slightly misting the enclosure.

Feeding

Hatchling Royal Pythons are capable of feeding on rat pups or small mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item the same size as the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling royal pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two weeks, and a larger rat should be offered.

Royal pythons can be incredibly fussy feeders. Many are wild caught or captive farmed, which is often the result of their tricky feeding habits. In my experience, the one trick that works most the time to get them feeding, is to heat up the food item and offer the food using the ‘tease’ feed method. Please refer to our ‘Problematic Snake Feeding Page’ for more detailed information on how to get your Royal Python feeding.

By: Chris M Jones

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Kansieo.com

Eric Rovegno asked:


Determining the sex of your snake is a good thing to do or have done.

There are a couple of reasons for wanting to know the sex of your snake.

First: If you’re a breeder, you need to know the sex to help you determine who you are going to be breeding your snake to. Most breeders look for females that are normal, and males that are a morph.

Normal/Morph: what are you talking about. A normal Ball Pythons typically has light brown splotches all over it’s body with black outlining them, the belly is typically off white with splotches of black. A morph can be extremely different, their whole body can be pearl white, or white with orangish yellow splotches, an Albino. Or black with really bright yellow splotches, a Lemon Pastel. There are too many to even consider listing here.

OK, back to our original subject, determining the sex. There are two ways you can go about this, the first way is probing, used the most by pet stores and owners of older snakes. The second is the popping method. This method is used by experienced breeders and owners of young snakes.

Probing: To do this you would hold the snakes tail bottom up. You will then lubricate a sexing probe, which can be purchased in most reptile shops or online. You take the rounded tip and insert it into the cloaca towards to snakes tail. You DO NOT need to force it in, this can cause damage. Slowly inserting it into the genitalia. When you feel a slight resistance you stop and and place your finger at the point the probe and body meet. Slowly pull the probe out while holding that spot. This will enable you to count the sub scales on the underside of the snakes belly. Place the probe right next to the body towards the tail and count the amount of scales form cloaca entrance to the tip of the probe, males can range from eight to ten sub scales. There are known cases where the male only measured five to six. Females typically measure from two to four sub scales. Do to the variance this method of sexing is not always accurate.

Popping: This has to be done by someone with experience. When popping you are forcing the hemipenis out of the male and the hemilogs out of the female. This method is best done on newly hatched to young snakes. As they age they can control their body parts better. This is the most accurate method when done correctly. To do this method you should place the snakes head and upper half of the body into a snake bag. You will then grab the tail and flip it upside down, slowly apply pressure from the end of the tail toward the cloaca, please DO NOT APPLY TOO MUCH PRESSURE. This action with force the hemipenis and hemilog out to see. A female has small nubs, while a male has a long narrow tube resembling a penis. Again this method is best practiced by someone with experience.

I hope you have learned a little something today. There are several great books like Ball Pythons, by the Barker’s with photo’s and technique. Visit our site and become a member of the ball python forum. You can post question there and get additional answers.

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Brigitte Smith asked:


Some people purchase ingredients from health food or grocery stores and feed their dogs pet food they have made themselves. Many other people depend on buying commercially manufactured dog food. There are a variety of recommendations concerning what the best diet is for dogs.

Some people argue that dogs have thrived off of leftovers and scraps from their human owners for thousands of years and that commercial dog foods which have only been available for the past century contain poor-quality meats, additives, and other ingredients dogs should not ingest, or that commercial dog food is not nutritionally sufficient for their dogs.

It’s usually less expensive to purchase dry pet food. Per pound, it is much more cost effective than its canned or semi-moist relatives. Dry food generally only contains 6-10% moisture whereas canned foods are 78% moisture. It appears that dry food which contains more actual food ingredients and less water is the better value here. Dry food is also instrumental in your pet’s dental health in that it prevents the build-up of tartar. Canned foods which are opened and served at mealtimes mean fresher food for your pet. Unless you have a large, airtight container to keep your dry food in after you open the package, the canned food will provide the freshest diet.

Kibble, which is the common name for pellets of dry pet food, is normally manufactured either by extrusion or baking. Extrusion involves cutting dough or a mix of raw ingredients and feeding it into an expander. Pressurized steam or hot water is added to the expander, causing the pellets to puff like popcorn when they are removed. After the kibbles dry, they are sprayed with vitamins, fats, oils and any other remaining ingredient that does not have a tolerance for high heat.

If not properly sealed, it is possible for dry food to lose its quality. Oxygen is known to react with components added after initial preparation, altering the taste. Further, the heat involved in shipping the wellness dog food can also have negative effects before it even hits store shelves. Another alternative comes from the Burns company.

Many pet owners believe baked kibble is a more natural and digestible food for their dogs than foods produced by extrusion. However, baking involves a longer heating time which some people feel negates the extra values the food might have had. In the baking method, kibble is put through less pressure for extended periods of time. Instead of being sprayed on as an afterthought, fat is baked right in which means that baked kibble keeps longer when exposed to air than extruded kibble does. For this reason, opening a package of kibble does not seriously cut down on the shelf life of baked kibble dog foods.

Pet Food

Many people harbor fears of snakes. There are obvious reasons for this. These reptiles are well-known for the deadly venom of their bite. Although most species of snake do not have a poisonous bite, the ones that do have effectively determined snakes’ overall reputation. In addition to their bite, many snakes have a frightening style of motion. They can move stealthily and low to the ground; they can strike their prey suddenly, without any warning. Furthermore, snakes have facial characteristics that many people fear. Their beady eyes and fixed grins appear utterly inhuman. Their dry and scaly skins also contribute to many people’s phobias.

When Fear Is A Problem

In urban areas of the US and UK, people with severe snake phobia can lead normal lives most of the time. They are unlikely to encounter the scaly creatures outside of zoos, pet stores, and, perhaps, friends’ houses. However, what if someone who is afraid of these reptiles has to, or wants to be, in an environment where he or she is likely to encounter snakes? A classic example of this is in the Indiana Jones movies. The life of the title character would have been significantly easier if he did not harbor a phobia of snakes.

One real-life situation in which it would be problematic to be afraid of these animals is hiking. People who fear the snake must refrain from hiking in some of the most scenic parts of California. In fact, crawling reptiles inhabit most of the wilderness areas of North America. In short, anyone who aspires to spending a large portion of his or her life exploring the outdoors would be severely hampered by an undue fear of serpents.

How People Have Dealt With The Fear Of Snakes

Most people are afraid of slithering serpents to some extent. Historically, those whose fears of serpents have amounted to severe phobia (as well as those exhibiting a typical degree of nervousness around the creatures, who simply wanted to become more comfortable around them), have tried to overcome their fear by exposing themselves to different varieties of snake. There are classes on how to properly handle gentle garden snakes, pythons, and even poisonous rattlesnakes and pit vipers. However, some people just seem to have a mental block, or an instinctive reaction, that causes them to panic every time they so much as see a snake. For these people, know amount of animal handling knowledge seems to help. A snake-handling class might only traumatize them more, especially if they panic and cause an incident.

NLP Is A Possible Solution

One often-overlooked solution for conquering irrational fears, including an excessive reaction to slithering reptiles, is NLP (neuro-linguistic programming). NLP is an excellent way to change one’s conditioned responses, which most phobias are considered to be. With NLP, you’ll learn to recognize the ultimately predictable thought patterns that lead to your fear. Then, you’ll be able to change those thought patterns, and re-train yourself. Many of the most effective therapists use a combination of NLP and hypnosis techniques to change clients’ reaction of fear into one of calmness and confidence. In this way, clients overcome their fears of snakes surprisingly quickly.

By: J J Seymour

About the Author:

Kansieo.com

Steven Pair asked:


How do you choose the right food for your pet? There are three simple rules that you should follow when choosing a pet food and we are going to take a look at just what those are. They range from getting the right food for your dog’s age to taking a look at information about the manufacturer. Let’s start with taking a look at how old your dog is and what the label of the pet food says.

The age of your dog will be a big factor in making sure that you get the right dog food. You might have noticed many brands have food for puppies all the way up to senior dogs. Think back to when you were a kid, you probably needed more calcium than you do now as an adult. The same holds true for dogs, when they are puppies they need more nutrition than when they are grown dogs. The labels found on foods will usually say whether they are for puppies or adults, you should choose the one that is closest to your dog’s age. Another good thing to look for is the list of ingredients.

There are some things that you want to look at that some people tend to avoid. These are substance that might be second rate or have been exposed to certain chemicals. Animal by-products are used in the making of many dog foods that people are starting to avoid. These are often proteins that are not processed by heat and might be classified as left over parts. Some dog foods use only lean chicken and turkey meat in their products. Another ingredient that some people tend to avoid is “meals,” like “meat meal” or “poultry by-product meal.” These are often by-products of animals that people don’t tend to eat and therefore don’t want to feed their dogs. The last thing you want to look at is the manufacturers information.

The manufacturer information can usually be found on the label for the pet food. Manufacturer’s only have to include their name and address but you should be able to contact the manufacturer with any questions that you might have, and do so with ease. Look for a phone number to call or at least an email address, the manufacturers’ should always be on hand to answer your questions.

Americans will spend over 10 billion dollars this year on pet food alone. That food is essential to your pet’s health and making sure they live a long and healthy life. It’s important to make sure you know everything about what you are feeding your dog and to make sure that the food is safe. Talk to your veterinarian about Innova dog food or whatever food you choose to give your best friend.

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So let’s talk about the seemingly dying breed of snake charmers. Exactly where did they come from? How did they become charmers of snakes and how do they do what they do?

It is said that the Guru of Snake Charmers taught people to revere Reptiles rather than be afraid of them and that the art of charming snakes emerged from those who were in the business of treating people for snake bites. Those who sought to follow in the Guru’s footsteps were trained as to how to properly handle a snake and what to administer for Snake bites. These healers as they were called, also removed snakes from people’s homes and became known for their healing abilities and the ease with which they handled snakes.

It is this ease these healers had with snakes that ushered in the era of Snake Charmers. The general belief is that the art of snake charming originated in Egypt and this is given creditability from the account of a showdown between a kings, sorcerers, and a man named Moses. But scholars hold that snake charming as we know it today probably originated in India. It is here we find the fine points of Snake Charming being defended as a family business.

Dressed in traditional attire, having long hair wrapped in a turban, wearing beads and earrings our snake charmer sets out to find his audience. He carries his snake or snakes in a basket that is suspended over his shoulder on a long pole. When he finds the perfect spot he will sit down in front of his basket cross his legs and wait for the appropriate time to remove the lid.

Having removed the lid from the basket he begins his ritual. The Charmer makes music with his flute and presto as if he has heard the music the snake will come up out of the basket; if by chance it is a Cobra it will extend its hood and begin to sway to the music as if being hypnotized by the Charmer. All who see this dangerous show being carried out before their very eyes are in awe; they applaud and reward the snake charmer.

How can this not be real? Well according to well informed sources a snake is in his comfort zone when kept in the dark; shed some light and he is startled into emerging from his den. As for why he will sway to the music and act hypnotized; well it is one or a combination of things. The snake will react to the movement of the flute, the vibration of the flute or to the patting of the charmers feet.

You are saying but what about the music? I hate to burst your bubble but the snake cannot hear it! I know you want to remind me that the snake retreats when the music stops; pay attention when the Charmer stops all motion the snake will retreat. Finally snakes by nature are timid creatures and prefer to scare off their opponents rather than fight.

So Egyptian Charmers, Indian Charmers they all emerged from the same source; they came from those who had a way with handling Snakes and provided a service for those who didn’t.

By: Chris L. Jensen

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Snakes

In the previous section I covered the history of snakes, how they got to be what they are now. But what are they? How do they live their lives, where do they live? This is what I’ll address in this section.

Snakes have a long, narrow body. Their internal organs are made to fit their long and narrow body type. Snakes have only one functioning lung, so it’s vital that their environment is clean and not polluted.

An interesting fact to know; to find out how many “vertabreas” the snake has, you can count the number of belly scales. Usually there will be a new scale for each vertebrea. It’s jaw is evolved so that the snake can swallow prey many times its size. The bottom part of the jaw is not locked together, as it is in most other animals, but it can be separated into two parts. This way its mouth can open up, swallow the prey, and then pull its jaw together again. When the snake does this, it looks like it’s yawning, opening the mouth up wide and shutting it again.

Their vision is just awesome, they don’t see like we do; rather they see heat and movements. They also don’t hear anything but very low frequencies, so talking to a snake will not work. You can shout you lungs out, the snake cannot hear you. It does however feel the vibration, so stomping your feet in the ground will definitely get its attention. If you ever seen a cobra hypnotized by someone playing a flute, you can be sure that the person is stomping his foot in the ground or similar, as the snake would not hear the flute.

The males have two reproductive organs, the hemipenes. During mating only one will actually carry sperm. With young snakes you can sex the snakes by “popping” them. That means that to check for a male you pop out the hemipenes by applying pressure to the bottom of the tail. If done wrong this can hurt the snake and make it infertile, so you should always have someone show you how to do it before attempting. This cannot be done with other then very young snakes. The males are usually a little wider around the vent area before the tail narrows down quickly (because of the hemipenes inside), while in the females the tail narrows down more evenly. But this can be very difficult to see with the naked eye, so the best way to sex a snake is by “probing”. Proping is where you stick a probe into the snake’s vent and see how far in it goes before you meet resistance. In males the hemipenes makes the probe go in further then in the female.

When it comes to birth, snakes are not good parents. The fathers are completely absent, he impregnates the female and leaves. The female then either lays her eggs, or has live babies. Pythons and corn snakes lay eggs, while boas have live babies. Some snakes lay ontop of the eggs till they hatch, actually regulating the temperature for them, while others such as the corn snake just lays them and leaves. A pregnant snake is said to be “gravid”. After the babies are born or hatched they are on their own. This might be natures way of regulating the snake population, because a snake can have very many babies! However, without any help from the parents most don’t make it. For these it really is survival of the fittest, but also alot of luck!

Skin and Shedding

Snake skin is scaly, but not slimy which is a very common misconception. Snakes are NOT worms!

Their skin is built up by scales, which help the snake’s movement by gripping the surface. As new cells grow under the snake’s skin, the new cells push the old cells up, creating a transparent skin. When the snake grows and the top layer of skin is being pushed even further, the snake goes through a process of shedding.

The shedding has several phases; first the skin becomes rough and the snake’s belly usually turns pinkish. Then its eyes reach the “opaque” stage, its eyes turns blue and the snake is basically blind for a few days. This is because the snake is shedding the layer over its eyes. Then the snake starts looking normal again, and it’s very hard to see that it’s shedding. Next thing is to rub its skin against the surface, rocks etc, to push off the skin from head to tail. It looks like a sock thats pulled off, ending up inside out. The snake’s skin is supposed to come off in one piece. Young snakes shed often; every month or two. When they get older their grow rate decreases, and they shed more rarely. Although they do most of their growing in the first couple of years, snakes never stop growing. Adult snakes shed a couple of times a year. Shedding is also very important in getting rid of parasites.
Habitat

Snakes can now be found throughout the world, the only place there are no snakes is in the arctic region. They are such adaptable creatures, there just isn’t any comparison to their success. They live in deserts, cities, oceans, lakes, forests, mountains, savannas, rain forests etc. The list could go on and on. Snakes are everywhere.

Snakes in cooler areas usually go into a sort of hibernation during the wintertime, called brumation. Unlike hibernation where pretty much everything shuts down and wakes up again in spring, brumation is what you could call “do nothing”. All the body functions are intact and the snake even moves around a little bit. However, it mostly lays there and waits for spring. Usually the snake chooses a place underground, so that it can stay as warm as possible during winter. Almost every snake that lives in an area with cool temperatures during winter brumates, otherwise it would not survive.

There are many places where snakes that are not native to the area have been introduced, and now they are thriving. In many cases this proves a real challenge to the natural ecosystem, as the new snakes push other species out, or the simple fact that humans do not want them there. This is why people who have snakes, cannot just go to the park and drop them off! I cannot stress this enough, just watch what’s happened in the Everglades in Florida. Now there are anacondas and reticulated pythons breeding in an area where they do not belong, because careless owners who were faced with snakes they couldn’t handle or didn’t want let them loose. These kinds of actions can have fatal consequences.

Diet

All snakes are carnivorous, but the diet varies greatly depending on habitat and size. Most eat rodents; mice, rats, rabbits, gerbils etc. Others eat fish, eggs, lizards and even other snakes. The very big species can eat pretty much everything from hippos to crocs.

Snakes are amazing in terms of patience, they can lay in one spot for days, just waiting for a prey to pass by. If a prey comes by, the snake will use its attack method, whether it is constriction or venom, to kill it.

Snakes cannot taste anything, and does not chew. There is more about how snakes are able to swallow a prey many times its size in the anatomy section, but basically its bottom jaw gets separated in two while eating, and muscle movements help the snake swallow. The teeth are pointed towards the back of its mouth, so when a prey is bitten it’s almost impossible for it to escape. The more the prey tries to push itself out, the better grip the snake gets. It’s so clever, and so simple. Anyone who has ever been bitten by a snake, knows that trying to pull the finger out of it’s mouth rarely works. To get your finger loose, you actually have to push it further into the mouth to get loose from the grip, and then open the mouth and your free.

If the prey poses no threat, such as a pinkie mouse, the snake will usually not bother to waste energy killing it, but rather swallows it alive.

After the snake has eaten it’s time for it to digest its food. This is very important and the snake cannot be bothered during this process. This process usually takes around 48 hours, and if the snake feels threatened, the prey is too big, or the weather isn’t warm enough it will regurgitate (throw up). Regurgitation is a serious thing for all snakes, their systems basically gets turned upside down. The best thing to do after a regurge is to wait at least ten days before trying to feed again. How often a snake eats varies from specie to specie. Very often the males (sometimes females) fast around breeding season no matter if they actually breed or not. Snakes might also not eat if they are shedding.

By: Vincent Madsen

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