Archive for June, 2008

posted by admin on Jun 29

If you have ever been surprised by a rattlesnake or brown snake you know why it is great to know how to keep them away. A bite from either one of these snakes can cause significant pain, damage, and possibly death. To this end there are snake repellents available to do just that, and without harming the snake.

Generally all snake repellents take advantage of an animal’s natural aversion to things that remind them of predators or simply make them uncomfortable. Often these are things that the animal has learned to avoid (or instinctively avoids) in its natural environment. Some animals will avoid anything that has the odour of the urine of certain predators for example.

Commonly chemical repellents mimic these naturally repellent substances, or are so irritating to a specific animal that it will avoid the protected object or area. Some of these chemical repellents combine both principles of avoidance. By utilising these same principles there are a number of snake repellent products available on the market ranging from home made remedies (with limited effectiveness, if any) to traps, chemical repellents, and electronic repellents.

Most of the traditional snake repellents use a chemical called naphthalene. This chemical has been found to cause liver damage, anaemia and has been classified by the EPA as a Class C possible human carcinogen. They are therefore not commonly desired by many homes or properties. There are however other products like Liquid Fence Snake Repellent which is a liquid form chemical to repel snakes. It is naphthalene free, earth and family friendly, and just as guaranteed effective at repelling snakes. Another option is to use a granular repellent such as Dr T’s Snake-A-Way repellent. Each of these requires placement on or around objects or areas that you want to repel snakes from. However they require reapplying after heavy rain or after a number of weeks have past.

If however you are resistant to the idea of using chemicals (even if they are earth and environment friendly) you may be in electronic snake repellents which have been developed to scare snakes away. They emit a pulsing vibration which causes the snake to evacuate the area. Snakes are able to pick up some sound waves conducted through the air, but only at very low frequencies. They actually sense the vibration right throughout their bodies via their spine. It is environmentally safe and will not affect any other animals, birds or livestock.

By: Paul C Knowles

About the Author:
This author has experienced the fear of being confronted by a poisonous snake unexpectedly. It is not something that he wants to repeat.
He highly recommends an effective snake repellent around the home or when camping.



Caffeinated Content

posted by admin on Jun 29

Joseph Devine asked:


If you and your family have decided that you would like to keep an exotic pet, such as a turtle, there are many things that you need to be aware of when caring for a pet such as this. Sometimes they might have special diet requirements that you need to follow strictly in order for the pet to be healthy and happy.

Turtles can be interesting pets for anyone to take care of and are often picked as pets for the wrong reasons. One of the main things that you will need to do when you are caring for a turtle is to make sure that the turtle has the correct environment to live in. Turtles need to have just the right temperatures in order to survive in whatever environment that you have created for them. You need to make sure that your turtle has enough room to move around as well as a basking light so they can warm up if they choose to. If you choose to use a refrigerator to recreate their habitat, be aware that any drastic increases in temperature can cause the turtle to go into shock and can be fatal to the turtle.

Another factor to consider is the diet that the turtle will need to be on. The first factor that you need to realize is that your turtle is an omnivore which means that they will eat both meat and vegetables. On the other hand, you need to make sure that your turtle has a well balanced diet in order for the turtle to stay happy and healthy while it is growing and maturing. Feeding your turtle fresh fruits and vegetables as well as fish is always a safe diet when it comes to the health of your pet. Fish is often a good meat to provide for your turtle because it provides a lot of nutrients that your turtle will need to stay healthy. There are also some different types of sticks that you can buy for your turtle that already contain the correct amounts of nutrients and food that your turtle will need to survive. Your turtle needs exercise so giving your turtle a live fish in the water will help it to stay active and hunting is the best way to exercise for a growing turtle. Remember that if your turtle begins to look a cloudy washed out color, you need to take it to the vet immediately because it could be sick with some type of disease.

Kansieo.com

posted by admin on Jun 26

Barry Mcgee asked:


There is perhaps no other creature that has been so mythologized, feared, and misunderstood as the toad. Indeed, the toad has long been associated with black magic, poison, and death. At the same time, however, toads have been considered symbols of fertility, love, and health by alchemists, gypsies, and all manner of ancient peoples. In a more modern context, toads have enjoyed increasing popularity as easy-to-keep, unique pets. With options ranging from the garden-variety American toad to the more exotic Oriental fire-bellied toad, keeping a pet toad can be an education unto itself, provided you learn the following valuable pet toad care pointers first!

While your methods of toad pet care will depend largely upon the individual needs of the species you choose as a companion, there a few basic “rules” that should be heeded. The first rule as that most toads don’t take kindly to being held or touched. While there is no truth to the old wives’ tale that says touching a toad will cause warts, it is true that toads will secrete a toxic, defensive substance from their skin when they feel threatened. To that end, you should always wash your hands if you must touch your pet toad, but you should also keep in mind that the reason your toad feels threatened in the first place is because you’re many, many times larger than it is! Toads are not wired to respond to affection like a cat or dog, therefore, they are best enjoyed happily dwelling in an enclosure that resembles their natural habitat as closely as possible-an appropriately appointed living space.

Your pet toad care success depends largely upon selecting a secure, adaptable home for your toad. Aquariums are always best, whether your toad is a land-dweller or a water lover as they allow for maximum viewing potential while keeping your toad safe from harm. Outfit your aquarium with a snug-fitting mesh top that will provide adequate ventilation, and ensure that your toad has enough room to hop and swim about. A good rule of thumb is that a single medium-sized toad should be given at least ten gallons worth of aquarium. Nearly all toads enjoy water to some extent-some pretty much live in it, climbing out only occasionally to rest, feed, or breathe while others spend most of their time grubbing around on land, entering the water only to drink or have a little swim. Once you’ve learned your toad’s species-specific preferences, you can devote your time to building a realistic habitat. For instance, if your toad is a native to wet forests, give him lots of leaf cover, moss, and a few lush, live plants to enjoy. If your toad is a prairie dweller, he’ll need flat rocks, a stand of tall grass, and a small pool to lounge in.

As you consider your pet toad care checklist, keep in mind that you’ll have to account for your toad’s dietary needs, even if you’re squeamish about things like insects and worms. Most toads sold in the pet store will enjoy a steady diet of crickets, provided the crickets are dusted occasionally with a vitamin-rich powder (also available at pet stores). Toads may also enjoy earthworms or wax worms. Some toads have considerably more exotic dietary needs, and may need to be fed mice or goldfish to maintain their health and happiness, so always take care to consult a reputable book or salesperson before bringing your new toad home.

While owning a toad may not be for everyone, learning the ins and outs of pet toad care can make for a rewarding, unique, and perhaps even magical pet ownership experience for those who are up to the task. As you learn more and more about the varying needs, habitats, and mythologies behind these fascinating creatures, you’ll soon be ready for a toad of your very own. Educate yourself well and head to the pet store. You may just return home with a new best friend.

Kansieo.com

posted by admin on Jun 26

Tom Vaughan asked:


I’ll bet you didn’t know that lizards and turtles can carry harmful bacteria called Salmonella.

I love reptiles and I bet you do too (or you probably would not be reading this article!). You may have noticed that reptiles are becoming more and more popular as family pets. Reptiles such as turtles, iguanas, snakes, geckos, horned toads, and chameleons can make great pets because they are fascinating, quiet, don’t require daily feeding/walking, and can be kept in a cage with relatively very little fuss. However, there is a cautionary note folks need to be aware of when taking on a reptile for a pet. Reptiles sometimes carry a bacteria called Salmonella that can cause serious illness in people.

Although many people think of salmonellosis as an illness caused by contaminated food, it can also be caught by handling a pet reptile or contact with its environment. The trick is that you can’t tell by looking at a lizard, snake, or a turtle if it is carrying Salmonella. You see, Salmonella occurs naturally in many reptiles and the bacteria doesn’t usually make the animals sick.

If you have ever had about it, you most likely won’t ever forget it. Salmonellosis is a serious infection of the gastrointestinal tract. Diarrhea is the most common symptom of Salmonella infection, but other symptoms such as fever, headache, nausea, and vomiting can also occur. It can sometimes be extremely serious and even fatal for young children, the elderly, and persons with weak immune systems. Salmonellosis is not to be taken lightly. For that reason, families with children aged 5 years or younger or persons with weak immune systems should think twice about having pet reptiles.

Bacteria, including Salmonella, are easily passed from pet reptiles to people. Research by the Center for Disease Control shows that a person who handles reptiles can easily pass germs to others because bacteria are able to cling to skin, clothing and other surfaces. To reduce the chances of getting sick with salmonellosis by handling reptiles, here are some tips to follow as a reptile pet owner:

Wash hands with soap and water immediately after handling a reptile; Launder any clothing the reptile might have touchedDo not allow reptiles to roam the house freelyKeep reptiles out of the kitchenUse soap or a disinfectant to thoroughly clean any surfaces that have been in contact with reptiles.Another thing to keep in mind is that it is illegal in the United States to sell or distribute turtles with shells that measure less than 4 inches in length. This size was chosen because some small children treat smaller turtles as toys and put them in their mouths. Yuk! Despite this ban, these small turtles can still be found in some pet stores.

Of course, children will still catch wild turtles and lizards and bring them home to keep as pets, which is what kids are supposed to do. Just keep in mind, whether store-bought or caught in a friend’s backyard, a reptile can carry Salmonella and might not be the best choice of a pet for your family, especially if there are young children or persons with compromised immune systems in the household.

Kansieo.com

posted by admin on Jun 26

Corn snakes have become the most extensively produced snake in captivity, and for good reason. They are docile, suit well to captive conditions, and reasonably sized among other things. They are certainly a good beginner snake, possibly the best. In the following few pages, I will take you through the various factors of keeping corn snakes.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the corn snake’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult corn snake, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure for corn snakes. The reason for this, is that snakes are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it’s safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. Some species will not even venture out for their prey; instead they will sit and wait for it to come along. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. Many individual snakes feel very comfortable in captivity, although this generally comes with age and lots of handling. Snakes like these will often thrive in a larger than usual enclosure.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?

6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult corn snake is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Corn snakes require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-88ºF while the cool end should be approximately 74-76ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 74-78º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a corn snake enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Corn snakes are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a corn snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Corn Snakes are found in the South Eastern States of North America where the humidity can be fairly high. It is not important to be critical over the humidity with this species, but a general 40-60% humidity range should be offered. This is more important when the snake is approaching its slough, at which time a higher humidity will help it shed it’s skin properly.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered pinky mice, and as they grow the mice should become larger. An adult corn snake should be fed on large size mice or small weaner rats. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 4-5 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. Adult corn snakes need feeding once every 2 weeks on 2 large mice. The only exception when they should be fed more is bringing them out of hibernation, getting them into condition for breeding and then, fattening up females for egg production. An egg-laying female should be fed more often than normal, once a week on 2 large mice.

By: Chris M Jones

About the Author:

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com



Create a video blog…instantly.

posted by admin on Jun 25

pleasecroak asked:


Amphibians face a mass extinction. Why? How can you help? Here’s Kevin Zippel from Amphibian Ark explaining it all.

Caffeinated Content

posted by admin on Jun 7

reptileking24 asked:


Title -Casey ~The Kings Exotic Reptiles Corp. … reptiles wildlife gold tegu new reptile expo show

Caffeinated Content

posted by admin on Jun 3

NationalGeographic asked:


This little Australian frog will do anything to survive tough times. It uses its body like a canteen, its feet like shovels, and its skin like a cocoon. See All National Geographic Videos video.nationalgeographic.com

Website content

Powered By Wordpress - Theme Provided By Wordpress Theme
Theme Design by Deeogee. S